My friend and I, for many years, have been obsessed and fascinated with the Gilded Age. A unique and pivotal time in America's history. And where the richest families and pedigreed families competed with and married into the European nobility. Newport, Rhode Island was where they built their quaint summer cottages, spending their days by the water and their nights in the ballroom. Newport has been an integral part of U.S. history, walking down its streets is like stepping back through time. Another exciting thing about this trip, it was my first time experiencing fall in New England! So here is a little tale of my gilded leaf seaport trip!
We flew in and out of Providence, Rhode Island. Newport is a quick drive, 30 minutes via tolls or an hour sans tolls. To make the most of our trip and kill time before checking into our Airbnb, we decided to tool-around the city. Needing a second breakfast, we popped over to Small Point Cafe, which is between Federal Hill and College Hill areas.
*Note* most of the parking is street parking, and you have to pay using the app. Also lots of one-ways in this area.
They have an assortment of baked goodies, as well as breakfast and lunch items. We both got the recommended Lox Bagel Sandwich. I had one of their unique lattes of brown sugar and rosemary. This was a nice cozy place to enjoy a cup of coffee and plan our day. All around this area are a variety of shops and restaurants. We wandered into Symposium Books, which was on my friend's trip bucket list.
We spent most of the morning wandering around, looking at all the architecture and noticing all the leaves just starting to change colors.
Hopping in the car and hopping across the river to Brown University. There are tons of historic buildings over here, including The Providence Anthenaeum. Now part of Brown's campus, this library was founded in 1836. If you are a book lover, I highly suggest stopping in to see such a lovely collection of books heavily read over many years.
Fun Fact: Edgar Allen Poe lived in Providence when writing The Raven. He courted and almost married Sarah Whitman, a fellow poet. They spent quite a bit of time together at the Anthenaeum. But alas, their love was not meant to be, and they called off the engagement.
We leisurely strolled back to our car, enjoying the architecture and reminiscing of college life.
Now it was off to Newport!
It was an easy drive, only an hour from Providence, with no tolls. If you take toll roads, it is only 30 minutes, and you will get to pass over the Claiborne Pell Newport Bridge.
Having some time to kill before checking into our Airbnb, we decided to hit Thames Street and do some shopping.
*Note* Parking is similar to Providence. There is street parking and occasionally small parking lots, all metered parking requiring payment via the app.
There are chain stores like Banana Republic and Lululemon, but we were on the hunt for some local treasures. There are plenty of little boutique stores to pop into. Located at Bowen's Wharf is Kiel James Partick, a local store that boasts authentic New England charm and style.
If you want to take home a slice of New England, this store showcases it in all their adorable sweaters, dresses, hats, jewelry, and more. My friend and I both got adorable sweaters referencing the iconic town of Newport. My eye caught a bracelet, which they customize with nautical flags using your initials as a guide.
The staff was fantastic! This isn't one of those general touristy shops. This store provides an immersive New England experience with the warmth and delicious cider in the fall.
I had noticed the cutest red building before going to the KJP's store. At check out, I asked the sales girl if she was familiar with that place. She said, "Oh you mean Benjamins!" She said the food is great, and that is where all the locals go.
Sold! If the locals are there, I am there!
She was right we had amazing oysters! They were large and still salty as if freshly caught that morning, which they may have been. I had the Newport Chowder, which was delightful, but is different than a New England chowder, as it is a clear broth base. And continued our seafood extravaganza with a Lobster Roll.
Full shopping bags and full bellies. Time to check in to our stay.
Unpacked and freshened up we were ready to paint Newport gold!
Huge fans of espresso martini's we decided to check out the Copper Club. This hidden bar is located just above Wally's Wieners. To access it, head inside Wally's there is a white door on the right, then follow the narrow staircase up. There are several espresso martini's to choose from. We had a couple, but my favorite was the Orange County! Befitting of a Florida girl and someone who doesn't like their drinks too sweet.
After getting up at 4 a.m., traveling, having a full day of fun, and some drinks, nothing sounded better than a late-night slice of pizza. Nikola's Pizza was exactly what we needed! We each got a slice that rivaled any New York pizza for size and taste. Sorry New Yorkers, but this was one of the best slices I have ever had!
The next day, it was time for the reason for our visit, to walk the halls of the Gilded Age cottages. Yes, they look like mansions, but they are/were called cottages as they were only used from July 4 until the end of September.
You can walk down Bellevue Avenue to see these historic treasures. Some are still privately owned, and some, like The Elms, Marble House, The Breakers, and Rosecliff, have been rescued by the New Port Mansion Preservation Society and are open to the public to tour. Which is truly an amazing gift since to enter these homes for one of the balls you had to be invited and part of Mrs. Astor's 400.
We started by visiting The Elms, built by coal magnate E.J. Berwind. This cottage was the latest to be completed of the homes on Belleview Avenue, as construction finished in 1901.
Fun Fact: Julia Berwind, his sister, who became the lady of the house after Edward's wife passed, kept the house running with a full Gilded Age staff until 1971. And this is where several scenes from the second season of the show The Gilded Age was filmed.
While seeing all the ornate dining rooms and ballrooms is quite intriguing, I highly suggest doing the Servant Life Tour, where you get to learn about the servants of this grandiose house and see what their everyday life is like.
The view from where the servants stayed in the house.
Walking around cottages and their extensive gardens sure does work up an appetite. A little ways back is the Cru Cafe, a perfect place to grab a delicious lunch or late breakfast. They also have a selection of delectable baked goods. I don't like donuts, but I tried the apple cider donut my friend got, and I gobbled it right up!
Next up was Marble House, a present to Alva Vanderbilt for her 39th birthday from her husband, William K. Vanderbilt. The cottage was a gift from her husband, but it was Alva who created and designed it to reflect her upbringing in Paris and the gilded era.
Saving the rest of the mansion for the next day, we found ourselves following the road of Ocean Avenue. Taking in the views of the endless sea and watching the waves crash against the rocky shore.
All along Ocean Avenue are little beaches (iconic Bailey's Beach being one of them) and places to park to get out and explore the shoreline. We stopped at King's Beach, trapsing over sand, through tall grass, over slate stones.
Coming highly recommended, we decided to eat at Clarke Cooke House for dinner. I was told they have great seafood and to have their New England chowder by someone who grew up in Newport. This is a swanky establishment located right by the water. We got lucky, but I would suggest making a reservation at least a week in advance. There are several bars and dining areas. We found ourselves on the second level at the bar up there.
I have to say that New England Chowder was spot on! I have also become a fan of drinking Newport Water, which consists of a little bit of Grand Marnier, St. Germain, and lots of Champagne. The rich knew how important hydration was.
We got their Calamari Fritti for an appetizer. As we were chatting with other patrons at the bar, we learned one was a local fisherman who catches calamari! He smiled when he saw what we were having and said thanks for keeping me in business.
To celebrate it being our first time at Newport and Clarke's, the bartender hooked us up with a dessert called The Snowball in Hell.
Day two of cottage visits consisted of The Breakers and Rosecliff. But before visiting the splendid structures, we hit up a local coffee shop for a little morning pick me up and to warm up on this chilly fall morning. The Nitro Bar is obviously known for its smooth nitro brew, but they also have flavorful lattes and other unique drinks. This is a local business to Rhode Island with several locations, including two in Newport.
On our stroll back through the town, we happened upon an old cemetery. The Clifton Burying Ground had headstones as old as 1690! This is what I most enjoyed about Newport, there is piece of history on every corner.
The Breakers was the home of Cornelius and Alice Vanderbilt, and it is the largest cottage on the island.
Before exploring the vast expanse of the house, we did the Beneath the Breakers Tour, where we went below the marble floors to learn about how Richard Morris Hunt constructed the place and the incredible ingenuity used to power it.
Upward on Belleview Avenue is Rosecliff, constructed by the Oelrichs. This cottage is known for having Newport's largest ballroom with windows on one side viewing the rose garden and another set with a view of the sea.
We checked off most of the mansions you can go inside and visit, except Chateau Sur Mer and a few others which were closed for the season. It is $25 per mansion to view the house and its gardens. The Breakers is the only one that is $29. For a better deal, you can buy the package of 3, which gets you into three of the mansions, Breakers included, for only $46. While you can walk down Bellevue Avenue to visit them all, each mansion has a parking lot if you want to drive. For most, the parking lot is across the road. For Rosecliff, the lot is to the left of the house.
Newport is known for its sailing and once being the home of the America's Cup race. We did a sunset tour with Sightsailing Newport. And one cannot sail without champagne! While it was not bottomless, they did refill our cups a few times.
We sailed around the harbor, taking in the sights of Goat Island, Rose Island, and the Newport Bridge.
If anyone has watched Below Deck Sailing Yacht, you might be worried about listing. I was pleasantly surprised by how smooth the sail was as we glided under the bridge. The crew was amazing!
And we got lucky with one of the best sunsets they had all season.
Sailing, even if you are lounging drinking champagne, can make one hungry. Located on the docks, right where we disembarked, is the restaurant The Black Pearl. No, there isn't any association with Pirates of the Caribbean or Captain Jack Sparrow. This place was recommended to me by a local for their seafood. The meal was good, but of all the meals we had had so far, it was the least impressive. But after a chilly sail, their clam chowder warmed me right up!
To close out our trip, we strolled the iconic Cliff Walk. We started at Forty Steps, which is where many of the mansion staff members would come to dance and frolic. A celebration is held every year called the "Dancing at the Forty Steps" by the Newport Museum of Irish History in March. It is a celebration and harkens back to the simple joy of dancing by the sea.
You will park along Narragansett Avenue and pay at the box, which is by the steps. There is a restroom available. I suggest using it before starting your journey, as it is the only one near the trail.
The history of the Cliff Walk is full of constant battles between the public and the owners of the impressive mansions. It is easy to see why, as this path gives you the perfect chance to see these towering structures while enjoying the serenity of the waves and breeze.
Shown above is Ochre Court, the French chateau style home of the Goelets. The large gate is where you enter the part of the Cliff Walk that leads you by The Breakers. While large portion of the path is paved, there are sections where you will have to walk over large rocks and along a less manicured trail, so wear very good walking shoes!
Before heading back to Providence to fly home, we had one more culinary experience. Changing it up from all the fresh and delicious seafood we have had, we visited Bar'Cino, known for its Italian food, especially its grilled pizzas.
This pizza was so unique, fresh, and incredibly flavorful! I also became obsessed with their Black Pepper Cosmo, in a way that now a normal comso will never measure up.
My trip to Newport was all I could have wanted and more! From lobster rolls and oysters, to chateau and Venetian style cottages, to sailing with Newport was full of rich experiences. I look forward to running away to Newport again!
Comentários